It’s actually been a few weeks since HFD1 has visited. I missed the previous pic opportunity and didn’t blog it, the victim was lifted out from so low on trail I couldn’t see it. And today as we were under Scat’s sled removing his brake master I hear the familiar whine of HFD1. I guess the guys are getting so much practice they’re so good at this now that by the time I rolled out from under the car and walked out to look, they had this victim in the barf basket and whipped out to landing at the field. Didn’t have time to get my camera so no pics again.
My black Light My Fire Spork Little fell into two pieces today when I was washing it. It had survived Greek yoghurt and instant Korean spicy noodles earlier in the evening, but couldn’t handle dish detergent and water. I wasn’t even bending it or twisting it. It didn’t go “pop” when it failed either - it just released. Now I’m down to the white one since the avocado green one disappeared almost immediately. Weak.
In working on the rally FX, discovered the rear engine mount in this condition. Found an old one, but it was likewise cracked, marginally better. I flipped it around and put it in for now. Called around the last two days, with Napa & Carquest saying they found it, but when I actually went down they were nothing like my mounts. Decided to go the DIY way and reconstruct it using the gooey 3M Window Weld stuff. It’s a common “cheap” trick for filling in OEM mounts to stiffen them up. This stuff is a single part moisture cured polyurethane. I actually used this stuff on the front mount, but that mount was still good. This one I drilled & sawed out all the rubber and am in the process of filling in entirely with the black goop. It’s not super cheap in Hawaii, a tube of this stuff at Napa is around $20. And once you open it, its done. You need to use it immediately, anything left over will quickly harden and never come out of tube. I just finished filling in the mount and theres about 2/3 of the tube left. Oh well! Now to wait for it to cure, with this kind of thickness it’ll be a couple days.
Am I going to have to start a new category, KC rescues? It is now not an exageration that it is time for HFD1’s weekly visit to Koko Crater!
Time for HFD1’s weekly visit to Koko Crater…. I’ve seen image elsewhere on net of new sign on the trail. As someone said on that site, they should just put in a helipad on Koko Crater already, not that it would help with the people in the middle of the trail.
If you arrived here from the Honolulu Academy of Arts August Moon event page, take a look here, or browse on the “art” category. Thanks!
Subaru BRZ was at todays SCCA autocross. I’m sticking pics in here because I can’t seem to link images in the gallery website now.
Â
It took a while for me to figure out what I was going to do about replacing my Danner 453 GTX’s, since the fit on those was great, and they had a good balance of low mass, good traction, and good support. They served me well in environments from desert to snow, being neither too hot nor too cold. I wanted the replacements to likewise have a mixed suede (or Nubuck) and Cordura upper to provide better ventilation than an all-leather one. The breathability outside of the Gore-Tex membrane is critical in allowing moisture to escape and for the waterproof-breathable system to work efficiently (I’ve got a pair of steel-toe Danner 453’s which are all-leather, and they are significantly hotter than the Cordura/Nubuck version). Reducing this moisture buildup is critical in keeping feet dry and cool in warmer conditions and dry and warm in cold conditions. I wanted a more aggressive outsole tread than the Danners had. Okay, granted the Danners were really worn out, but the sole blocks were very low profile to begin with. I also wanted something that wasn’t made in The PRC. Continue reading ‘Scarpa Kailash GTX 2012’